A little background
Ampersand Malus is a hybrid spirit crafted under the Foley Family Wines & Spirits portfolio, helmed by veteran Master Blender Chip Tate. The Ampersand brand focuses on the alchemy of blending complementary spirits to push traditional category conventions. The “Malus” expression (named after the Latin genus for apple trees) pays homage to early American distilling traditions by uniting 51% Kentucky straight rye whiskey and 49% Calvados, a distinct apple brandy from the Normandy region of France. The final non-chill filtered spirit is blended and bottled at Foley’s Minden Mill Distillery in Minden, Nevada, yielding an initial production run of 6,000 bottles.
For the specifications, both component spirits in Ampersand Malus are aged for over eight years prior to blending. The rye whiskey is matured in charred, new American oak and features a mash bill of 95% rye and 5% malted barley. The Calvados rests in French oak and is distilled from a traditional base of 95% apples and 5% pears. Ampersand Malus is bottled at 92 proof (46% ABV) and carries a suggested retail price of $59.99 for a 750mL bottle.
(Tasted neat from a Glencairn Glass)
Color
Amber
Nose
Fresh Red Apple, Vanilla Cream, Pear, Clove, and Honey.
Palate
Baked Apple, Black Pepper, Toffee, Dry Oak, and Cinnamon.
Finish
Long, Dry, Peppery, Orchard Fruit, and Leather.
In closing
Ampersand Malus Rye Whiskey stands as a successful testament to Chip Tate’s innovative blending philosophy, offering a unique hybrid experience that bridges the gap between American rye and French Calvados. At a 92 proof point, it maintains high drinkability while showcasing a sophisticated interplay of fresh orchard fruits and sturdy grain spice. While the brandy influence is prominent and the transition to a drier mid-palate may be a departure for those used to sweeter finishes, the overall integration of 8-year-old spirits is impressive. For enthusiasts seeking a fun, accessible, and boundary-pushing bottle that pays homage to early distilling traditions, this expression provides excellent value at its $59.99 price point.
Ultimately, Ampersand Malus is more than just a finished whiskey; it is a well-executed marriage of kindred spirits that rewards the palate with a chewy texture and a long, spicy finish. It is an ideal choice for the whiskey-savvy enthusiast looking to diversify their shelf without sacrificing the familiar peppery kick of a high-rye mash bill. Whether enjoyed neat to capture the full nuances of the French oak and Calvados or used as a premium base for a complex cocktail, this release from Foley Family Wines & Spirits is a bottle that invites both conversation and repeat pours.
NOTE: The sample used for this review was provided at no cost courtesy of Ampersand. We thank them for the sample and for allowing us to review it with no strings attached.
Ampersand Malus Rye Whiskey
The Good
- Unique Innovation
- Price
- Value
The Bad
- Brandy Dominance
- Drying on the mid palate and finish
- Not overly complex
